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18W T8 Universal 3-in-1 LED Tube - 2300 Lumens - 4ft - Single End/Dual End - Ballast Compatible/Ballast Bypass Type A/B - 32W Equivalent - 5000K/4000K
Features
- Versatile retrofit capabilities
- Plug and play Type A - dual ended
- Bypass ballast for Type B - single or dual ended
- Replaces 4' 32-watt T8 fluorescent tubes
- 120–277 VAC
- DLC Standard, 5 year warranty
Overview
Update nearly any 4’ fluorescent fixture with the universal 3-in-1 design of T8U4 series T8 LED Tube. Simply plug-and-play with Type A compatibility, or bypass the ballast for Type B luminaires. Conveniently replace 32-watt fluorescent tubes according to the existing system, with nearly half the wattage. The frosted glass lens distributes diffused, efficient task light for offices, schools, or any other commercial setting.
- Single or dual ended, G13 bi-pin base
- May not be compatible with all ballasts
- Type A runs 20.5-watts, Type B runs 18-watts
- Available in 5000K, 4000K
- 120-277 VAC input
- 50000 hours L70 lifespan
- DLC Standard, UL Listed, UL Classified
- 5 year warranty
- Factories
- Hospitals
- Schools
- Offices
- Commercial Complexes
- Industrial Facilities
Why Switch To
LED T8 Tube Lights
Energy Savings
It's difficult for property managers to realize the potential savings LED tubes have over their conventional fluorescent tube counterpart when just looking at a singular lamp’s specifications. Proper calculations require looking at fluorescent bulb wattage and the ballast factor to determine a true operational wattage. Then multiply that by the amount of bulbs per fixture and how many of those fixtures the facility is equipped with along with standard operation time. Fluorescent lamps generally get installed in places that require 24/7 operation time. This is over $5,000 in energy savings a year for a facility with 100 fluorescent fixtures with standard fluorescent to LED tube relamping specifications.
Reduced Maintenance Cost
One of the greatest benefits from LED lighting conversions of linear fluorescent lamp systems is the savings that can be achieved due to reduced maintenance costs with LEDs. Typical linear fluorescent fixtures require constant maintenance, inventory and records of all components; including the bulbs themselves, ballasts, and starters. LEDs are versatile in their dependency with that existing system allowing them to operate as “Plug and Play” with an existing ballast or with direct line bypassing a bad ballast. Combine that versatility with a minimum L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours and you will see quickly that the near zero maintenance could be the greatest benefit of all.
Rebate Incentives
Linear fluorescent lighting is one of the most consistently available retrofit rebate incentives offered from most all power utility companies for commercial and residential users. Most all LED tubes are listed under specific categories of DLC to help guide the end users and the utility companies to the most applicable product for their applications. The average rebate incentive for fluorescent lighting conversions to LED can cover up to 80% of the upfront cost of the light itself.
Key Technical Considerations
Connection Types
Single Ended
Electrically connected from one end of the tube, one pin connecting to line and one to neutral. This type requires non-shunted sockets and rewiring
Dual Ended
Electrically connected on both ends of the tube, with one end connecting to line and one to neutral. This type can use shunted or non-shunted sockets. As with the original bulbs these are replacing, one end of the tube connects to L and the opposite end to N—one end should not be connected to both.
Ballast Compatibility
Ballast In-Line
Dual-End Type A installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast. This is the easiest solution to relamping your fixture if you have already determined your ballast is functioning properly.
Ballast Bypassed
Single-End Type B installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
Socket Wiring
Shunted
Both contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are connected/bridged and are the same polarity—either L or N.
Non-Shunted
Contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are split, but can be either the same polarity or opposing polarity depending on the way the socket (tombstone) is wired.
Determining Shunted or Non-Shunted
Below are some typical examples of how shunted or non-shunted sockets might look. You should always check the socket terminals with a multimeter before installing bulbs or rewiring. If the two sides of a socket have continuity, then the socket is shunted regardless of appearance.
Types Of T8 Tubes
Type A Dual-End
Installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast.
- Plug and Play
- Dual-End wiring
- Requires compatible ballast
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets
Type B Single-End
Installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
- Single-End wiring
- Requires bypassing the ballast
- Non-shunted sockets only
Type B Dual-End
Installation simply involves bypassing the existing ballast and installing the tube with polarity matching the wiring.
- Dual-End wiring
- Requires bypassing the ballast
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets
Type A/B Hybrid
This can be installed in the same manner as a dual-end Type A (“plug and play” tube simply replaces the original fluorescent tube) or a single-end Type B (requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets).
- Can be used with or without ballast
- Ballast bypass (Single-End wiring)
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets (Type A), non-shunted sockets (Type B)
CURRENT PRODUCT
Type A/B 3-in-1 Universal
This is the most universal tube lamp solution. “Plug and Play” install if using the existing ballast, or bypass the ballast and install in the same manner as Single-End or Dual-End Type B.
- Can be used with or without ballast
- Ballast bypass (Single and Dual-End wiring)
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets (Type A or Dual-End Type B)
- Non-shunted (Single-End Type B)
Specifications
.
| Part NO | Color Temperature | LED Quantity | LED Wattage | Intensity per LED | Milliwatt | CCT / Wavelength | Price Ea. | Product Weight | Lumen Per Dollar | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| T8U4-40K18-AFN | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | $6.95 | - | 330.94 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-50K18-AFN | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | $6.95 | - | 330.94 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-40K18-AFN-4PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | $27.60 | - | 333.33 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-40K18-AFN-25PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | $169.95 | - | 338.33 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-40K18-AFN-50PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | $329.95 | - | 348.54 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-50K18-AFN-4PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | $27.60 | - | 333.33 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-50K18-AFN-25PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | $169.95 | - | 338.33 lumen/dollar | |
| T8U4-50K18-AFN-50PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | $329.95 | - | 348.54 lumen/dollar |
Reviews
Overall Rating
Total Reviews
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Great bulbs, very easy wiring job.
I purchased two of these that in a florescent fixture that had a new ballast put in but failed again in less than 48 hours. I did the single side installation, and removed the old ballast and one side of the wiring, paying attention to the line and neutral sides.
When wiring be aware these bulbs do have an up and down. The light evenly fills 360 degrees but there is a darker line, that should be facing up when installing so even light points down.
I am now considering more of these LED bulbs to replace the lights in our garage.
Why such a big label?
Nice and bright, and I would have gladly given more stars, but I wish the "superbright" label could have been a smaller. It darkens the last 2" of the tube and with a 48" tube, that's a significant percentage. So we unnecessarily give back a chunk of what we gained by changing to LED in the first place. There should have been a better solution, like a longer label on the top, where it doesn't block any light.
I tried to peel it off, BTW, but the glue doesn't allow a clean removal.
