Shop By Bulb Type
T8s are the most common linear tube type bulb with a 1 inch diameter and G13 medium bi-pin base found in common fluorescent troffer and strip fixtures.
T5s are a smaller 5/8 inch diameter, with a G5 bi-pin base. Often, these have higher output and sometimes designated as T5HO in high bay fixtures found in high ceiling applications.
T9 LED Circline bulbs have diameters ranging from 6 ½” to 16”. They have a four-pin base for simple installation and can work in fully enclosed fixtures.
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What is Ballast Compatibility?
Electric Ballast Compatible
Dual-End Type A installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast. This is the easiest solution to relamping your fixture if you have already determined your ballast is functioning properly.
How To Wire:
Ballast Bypass (Single-End Wiring)
Single-End Type B installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
How To Wire:
Ballast Bypass (Dual-End Wiring)
Dual-End Type B installation simply involves bypassing the existing ballast and installing the tube with polarity matching the wiring. This is the most common retrofit solution when bypassing the ballast.
How To Wire:
Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass (Single-End Wiring)
This can be installed in the same manner as a Dual-End Type A (“Plug and Play” tube simply replaces the original fluorescent tube) or a Single-End Type B (requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets).
How To Wire:
Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass (Single and Dual End Wiring)
This is the most universal tube lamp solution. “Plug and Play” install if using the existing ballast, or bypass the ballast and install in the same manner as Single-End or Dual-End Type B.
How To Wire:
Contact one of our LED lighting experts
About LED Tube Lights and Configurations
It's difficult for property managers to realize the potential savings LED tubes have over their conventional fluorescent tube counterpart when just looking at a singular lamp’s specifications. Proper calculations require looking at fluorescent bulb wattage and the ballast factor to determine a true operational wattage. Then multiply that by the amount of bulbs per fixture and how many of those fixtures the facility is equipped with along with standard operation time. Fluorescent lamps generally get installed in places that require 24/7 operation time. This is over $5,000 in energy savings a year for a facility with 100 fluorescent fixtures with standard fluorescent to LED tube relamping specifications.
Reduced Maintenance Cost
One of the greatest benefits from LED lighting conversions of linear fluorescent lamp systems is the savings that can be achieved due to reduced maintenance costs with LEDs. Typical linear fluorescent fixtures require constant maintenance, inventory and records of all components; including the bulbs themselves, ballasts, and starters. LEDs are versatile in their dependency with that existing system allowing them to operate as “Plug and Play” with an existing ballast or with direct line bypassing a bad ballast. Combine that versatility with a minimum L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours and you will see quickly that the near zero maintenance could be the greatest benefit of all.
Linear fluorescent lighting is one of the most consistently available retrofit rebate incentives offered from most all power utility companies for commercial and residential users. Most all LED tubes are listed under specific categories of DLC to help guide the end users and the utility companies to the most applicable product for their applications. The average rebate incentive for fluorescent lighting conversions to LED can cover up to 80% of the upfront cost of the light itself.
About Connection Type
- Electrically connected from one end of the tube, one pin connecting to line and one to neutral
- This type requires non-shunted sockets and rewiring
- Electrically connected on both ends of the tube, with one end connecting to line and one to neutral.
- This type can use shunted or non-shunted sockets. As with the original bulbs these are replacing, one end of the tube connects to L and the opposite end to N—one end should not be connected to both.
About & Determining Shunted or Non-Shunted
In many instances if you intend to use a tube light with a dual-end wiring configuration you'll simply be able to plug-and-play the light into the existing fixture without the need to reweire your (tombstone) sockets. LED tube lights with single-end wiring only support non-shunted sockets and depending on the light previously in the fixture may require rewiring. To learn more about LED tube lights check out our T5, T8, and T12 LED Tubes Explained guide.
Below are some typical examples of how shunted or non-shunted sockets might look. This is only a general reference. You should always check the socket terminals with a multimeter before installing bulbs or rewiring. If the two sides of a socket have continuity, then the socket is shunted regardless of appearance.
Both contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are connected/bridged and are the same polarity—either L or N.
INTERNALLY SHUNTED SOCKET
EXTERNALLY SHUNTED SOCKET
(WITH JUMPER WIRE)
Contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are split, but can be either the same polarity or opposing polarity depending on the way the socket (tombstone) is wired.
TYPICAL NON-SHUNTED SOCKET