LED Tube Lights

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T8 Tube Lights

T8s are the most common linear tube light with a 1 inch diameter and G13 medium bi-pin base found in common fluorescent troffer and strip fixtures.

LED tube lights are long-lasting, efficient replacements for fluorescent tubes. They are an easy-to-install, cost-effective way to switch to LEDs without replacing the entire fixture, reducing maintenance and energy costs.

LED tube lights are an excellent choice for replacing traditional fluorescent tubes with non-toxic LEDs in homes,  and commercial spaces such as offices, schools, retail stores, and warehouses. We offer standard LED tube light sizes T5, T8, and T12, with ballast-compatible (Type A), ballast bypass (Type B), and combination Type A/B options. Also available are T8 U-Bend and T9 Circline.

Energy Savings

In areas where the lighting will be constantly operating, LED tube lights provide savings on energy consumption and energy costs. Switching to LED lights from traditional fluorescents can lead to saving thousands in energy costs over a 12-month period.

Reduced Maintenance Cost

Typical linear fluorescent fixtures require constant maintenance and an abundant inventory and records of all components; including bulbs, ballasts, and starters. LEDs are versatile with their ability to operate on existing ballasts as “Plug and Play” or bypass the ballast as “Ballast Bypass”. Combined with a minimum L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours you will see quickly that the near-zero maintenance of LED tube lights.

Rebate Incentives

Linear fluorescent lighting is one of the most consistently available retrofit rebate incentives offered by most power utility companies for commercial and residential users.* For commercial users, most LED tubes are listed under specific categories of DLC to help guide the end users to the most applicable product. In some cases, the rebate incentive for fluorescent lighting conversions to LED can cover up to 80% of the upfront cost of the light itself.

*Updated Jan 1, 2025.

What is
Ballast Compatibility?

LED tube lights are designed to be compatible with different types of ballasts. Ballasts are devices used in fluorescent lighting systems to regulate the current and to start the lamps. Use the LED bulb specifications prior to purchase to identify the ballast compatibility for the best bulb performance and lower the risk of damage to the tube.

Plug-and-Play
(Type A | Direct Fit)

These LED tubes are designed to work with existing fluorescent ballasts. They are the easiest to install-  no rewiring required. However, compatibility must be checked as they may not work with all types of ballasts.

Ballast Bypass
(Type B | Direct Wire)

This requires the removal or bypass of the existing ballast with the LED tube wired directly to the power source. This is more energy-efficient as it eliminates power loss resulting from the ballast. Electrical assistance and knowledge are required for safe installation.

Connection Type

Single-End Wiring

• Electrical connections on the same side, one pin connecting to ‘Line’ and one to ‘Neutral’
• This type requires non-shunted sockets and rewiring

Dual-End Wiring

• Electrical connections on both ends of the tube, one end connects to ‘Line’ and the other to ‘Neutral’
• This type can use shunted or non-shunted sockets. As with the original bulbs these are replacing, one end of the tube connects to L and the opposite end to N—one end should not be connected to both.

Installation Type

Type A Dual-End

Electric Ballast Compatible

Dual-End Type A installation is “Plug-and-Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast. This is the easiest solution to relamping your fixture if you have already determined your ballast is functioning properly.

How To Wire:

Type B Single-End

Ballast Bypass (Single-End Wiring)

Single-End Type B installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.

How To Wire:

Type B Dual-End

Ballast Bypass (Dual-End Wiring)

Dual-End Type B installation simply involves bypassing the existing ballast and installing the tube with polarity matching the wiring. This is the most common retrofit solution when bypassing the ballast.

How To Wire:

Type A/B Hybrid

Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass
(Single-End Wiring)

This can be installed in the same manner as a Dual-End Type A (“Plug and Play” tube simply replaces the original fluorescent tube) or a Single-End Type B (requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets).

How To Wire:

OR:

Type A/B 3-in-1 Universal

Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass
(Single and Dual-End Wiring)

This is the most inclusive tube lamp solution. “Plug and Play” install if using the existing ballast, or bypass the ballast and install in the same manner as Single-End or Dual-End Type B.

How To Wire:

OR:

OR:

About & Determining
Shunted or Non-Shunted

In many cases, a dual-end wiring configuration will simply be able to “plug and play” the LED tube light into the existing fixture without the need to rewire your sockets (tombstone). Single-end LED tube lights only support non-shunted sockets and depending on the light previously in the fixture the sockets may require rewiring. To learn more about LED tube lights check out our T5, T8, and T12 LED Tubes Explained guide.

Here are some typical examples of how shunted or non-shunted sockets may look. This is only a general reference. Always check the socket terminals with a multimeter before installing bulbs or rewiring. If the two sides of a socket have continuity, then the socket is shunted regardless of appearance.

Shunted

Both contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are connected/bridged and are the same polarity—either L or N.

Internally Shunted Socket

Externally Shunted Socket
(with Jumper Wire)

Non-Shunted

Contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are split, but can be either the same polarity or opposing polarity depending on the way the socket (tombstone) is wired.

Typical Non-Shunted Socket