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LED Tube Lights
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What is Ballast Compatibility?
TYPE A DUAL-END
Electric Ballast Compatible
Dual-End Type A installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast. This is the easiest solution to relamping your fixture if you have already determined your ballast is functioning properly.
How To Wire:
TYPE B SINGLE-END
Ballast Bypass (Single-End Wiring)
Single-End Type B installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
How To Wire:
TYPE B DUAL-END
Ballast Bypass (Dual-End Wiring)
Dual-End Type B installation simply involves bypassing the existing ballast and installing the tube with polarity matching the wiring. This is the most common retrofit solution when bypassing the ballast.
How To Wire:
TYPE A/B HYBRID
Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass (Single-End Wiring)
This can be installed in the same manner as a Dual-End Type A (“Plug and Play” tube simply replaces the original fluorescent tube) or a Single-End Type B (requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets).
How To Wire:
OR
TYPE A/B 3-IN-1 UNIVERSAL
Ballast Compatible and Ballast Bypass (Single and Dual End Wiring)
This is the most universal tube lamp solution. “Plug and Play” install if using the existing ballast, or bypass the ballast and install in the same manner as Single-End or Dual-End Type B.
How To Wire:
OR
OR
Have Questions?
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Connection Types
SINGLE-END WIRING
- Electrically connected from one end of the tube, one pin connecting to line and one to neutral
- This type requires non-shunted sockets and rewiring
DUAL-END WIRING
- Electrically connected on both ends of the tube, with one end connecting to line and one to neutral.
- This type can use shunted or non-shunted sockets. As with the original bulbs these are replacing, one end of the tube connects to L and the opposite end to N—one end should not be connected to both.
Determining Shunted or Non-Shunted
Below are some typical examples of how shunted or non-shunted sockets might look. This is only a general reference. You should always check the socket terminals with a multimeter before installing bulbs or rewiring. If the two sides of a socket have continuity, then the socket is shunted regardless of appearance.
SHUNTED
Both contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are connected/bridged and are the same polarity—either L or N.
INTERNALLY SHUNTED SOCKET
EXTERNALLY SHUNTED SOCKET
(WITH JUMPER WIRE)
NON-SHUNTED
Contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are split, but can be either the same polarity or opposing polarity depending on the way the socket (tombstone) is wired.
TYPICAL NON-SHUNTED SOCKET
