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2835 SMD LED - 3000K Warm White Surface Mount LED w/120 Degree Viewing Angle

Part Number: 2835-WW25
4 photos
In Stock
$0.29 ea.
Volume price as low as $0.20
Orders ship on or before  Monday 07/22/2019
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This Epistar 2835 SMD surface mount component LED in Warm White features 25 lumens of 3000K color temperature, 80 CRI, and a 120 degree viewing angle. Price listed is per unit, however, bulk discounts are available and are automatically applied to your order. Also available in Cool White and Natural White.

Important Notes - Please read before purchasing:
  1. Component LEDs are sensitive electronic devices and require some knowledge of electronic circuits to operate them. These products cannot be returned after the package has been opened.
  • LED Backlights
  • Traffic Lights
  • LED Display Lighting
  • Electronic Components


Part Number: 2835-WW25
Warm White
absolute maximum ratings: (TA=25°C)
Power Dissipation PD 0.2 mW
Continuous Forward Current IF 60 mA
Peak Forward Current (1/10th duty cycle, 0.1ms pulse width) IFM 180 mA
Reverse Voltage VR 5 V
Operating Temperature TA -20~+85 °C
Storage Temperature Tstg -40~+85 °C
Lead Soldering Temperature (3mm from body) 260C (for 3 seconds)
Optoelectric Characteristics
View Angle of Half Power 1/2 -- 120 Degree --
Forward Voltage VF 3.4 3.2 V IF=20mA
Dominant Emission Wavelength -- -- Warm 3000K -- --
Luminous Intensity -- -- 25 lm --
Millicandela Output IV -- 8000 mcd IF=20mA
2835-WW25 - Warm White 2835 SMD LED
Warm White 2835 SMD LED


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Brilliant Little Package

I've just installed these gems onto adhesive copper foil tape to light the interior of a model aircraft carrier hangar deck. I needed something very small and unobtrusive. These SM LEDs were just what was needed. Their wide angle illumination would reduce hot spots and give an even lighting.

You need to take care to hand solder them since you must leave a small, 1mm gap for the space between the anode and cathode contacts on the LED's bottom. You must then lightly tin the copper foil, place and hold the LED with a tweezer and then heat the copper next to the LED on each side to melt the solder and make the connection. Their brightness is something to be seen and they will really light up the inside. I'm going to use this method on many other model structures for the same reason, lots of light without obtrusive bulbs in the way, no heat and very low power requirements. Frankly, if I didn't understand how LEDs actually work I would think they're magic.

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