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18W T8 Hybrid LED Tube - 2,070 Lumens - 4ft - Ballast Compatible/Single End Ballast Bypass Type A/B - 32W Equivalent - 5000K/4000K/3500K
Features
- Replaces 4' F32T8 fluorescent tubes
- Plug-and-play/ballast-bypass type A/B
- Mercury-free, instant-on
- UL and DLC Listed
- 5-Year warranty
Overview
These Hybrid LED T8 tubes are the long-lasting alternatives to F32T8 fluorescent tube lights. The 4' ballast-compatible/ballast-bypass tube light bulb can be used in direct-wire fluorescent fixtures or to replace T8 tubes in ballasted fixtures. It emits 2,070 lumens of cool, natural, or warm white illumination. Unlike fluorescent lights, this LED T8 tube turns on instantly—even in cold weather—and is simple to dispose of because it contains no harmful mercury. The single-ended LED light uses just 18 watts of power—significantly less than the 32 watts of an equivalent fluorescent tube light. With a life expectancy 5 times as long as fluorescent tubes, the LED T8 tube reduces costly repairs, disposal fees, and the need for replacements. Price per bulb, 4-pack, 25-pack, or 50-pack. It's perfect for basements, offices, schools, hospitals, factories, and more.
- Factories
- Hospitals
- Schools
- Offices
- Commercial Complexes
- Industrial Facilities
Why Switch To
LED T8 Tube Lights
Energy Savings
It's difficult for property managers to realize the potential savings LED tubes have over their conventional fluorescent tube counterpart when just looking at a singular lamp’s specifications. Proper calculations require looking at fluorescent bulb wattage and the ballast factor to determine a true operational wattage. Then multiply that by the amount of bulbs per fixture and how many of those fixtures the facility is equipped with along with standard operation time. Fluorescent lamps generally get installed in places that require 24/7 operation time. This is over $5,000 in energy savings a year for a facility with 100 fluorescent fixtures with standard fluorescent to LED tube relamping specifications.
Reduced Maintenance Cost
One of the greatest benefits from LED lighting conversions of linear fluorescent lamp systems is the savings that can be achieved due to reduced maintenance costs with LEDs. Typical linear fluorescent fixtures require constant maintenance, inventory and records of all components; including the bulbs themselves, ballasts, and starters. LEDs are versatile in their dependency with that existing system allowing them to operate as “Plug and Play” with an existing ballast or with direct line bypassing a bad ballast. Combine that versatility with a minimum L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours and you will see quickly that the near zero maintenance could be the greatest benefit of all.
Rebate Incentives
Linear fluorescent lighting is one of the most consistently available retrofit rebate incentives offered from most all power utility companies for commercial and residential users. Most all LED tubes are listed under specific categories of DLC to help guide the end users and the utility companies to the most applicable product for their applications. The average rebate incentive for fluorescent lighting conversions to LED can cover up to 80% of the upfront cost of the light itself.
Key Technical Considerations
Connection Types
Single Ended
Electrically connected from one end of the tube, one pin connecting to line and one to neutral. This type requires non-shunted sockets and rewiring
Dual Ended
Electrically connected on both ends of the tube, with one end connecting to line and one to neutral. This type can use shunted or non-shunted sockets. As with the original bulbs these are replacing, one end of the tube connects to L and the opposite end to N—one end should not be connected to both.
Ballast Compatibility
Ballast In-Line
Dual-End Type A installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast. This is the easiest solution to relamping your fixture if you have already determined your ballast is functioning properly.
Ballast Bypassed
Single-End Type B installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
Socket Wiring
Shunted
Both contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are connected/bridged and are the same polarity—either L or N.
Non-Shunted
Contacts in the same socket (tombstone) are split, but can be either the same polarity or opposing polarity depending on the way the socket (tombstone) is wired.
Determining Shunted or Non-Shunted
Below are some typical examples of how shunted or non-shunted sockets might look. You should always check the socket terminals with a multimeter before installing bulbs or rewiring. If the two sides of a socket have continuity, then the socket is shunted regardless of appearance.
Types Of T8 Tubes
Type A Dual-End
Installation is “Plug and Play” and simply replaces the original fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent, requiring the use of the original ballast.
- Plug and Play
- Dual-End wiring
- Requires compatible ballast
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets
Type B Single-End
Installation requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets (tombstones) in the fixture. This is a popular solution when relamping, due to the likelihood of an eventual ballast failure.
- Single-End wiring
- Requires bypassing the ballast
- Non-shunted sockets only
Type B Dual-End
Installation simply involves bypassing the existing ballast and installing the tube with polarity matching the wiring.
- Dual-End wiring
- Requires bypassing the ballast
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets
CURRENT PRODUCT
Type A/B Hybrid
This can be installed in the same manner as a dual-end Type A (“plug and play” tube simply replaces the original fluorescent tube) or a single-end Type B (requires bypassing the original ballast and rewiring sockets).
- Can be used with or without ballast
- Ballast bypass (Single-End wiring)
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets (Type A), non-shunted sockets (Type B)
Type A/B 3-in-1 Universal
This is the most universal tube lamp solution. “Plug and Play” install if using the existing ballast, or bypass the ballast and install in the same manner as Single-End or Dual-End Type B.
- Can be used with or without ballast
- Ballast bypass (Single and Dual-End wiring)
- Shunted or non-shunted sockets (Type A or Dual-End Type B)
- Non-shunted (Single-End Type B)
Specifications
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Click any blue question mark for specification details and explanation.
| Part NO | Color Temperature | LED Quantity | LED Wattage | Intensity per LED | Milliwatt | CCT / Wavelength | Price Ea. | Product Weight | Lumen Per Dollar | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| T8AB-35K18S-GF | Warm 3500K | - | - | - | - | 3500 | (Discontinued) | - | 231.28 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-40K18S-GF | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | (Discontinued) | - | 231.28 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-50K18S-GF | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | (Discontinued) | - | 231.28 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-35K18S-GF-4PK | Warm 3500K | - | - | - | - | 3500 | $35.60 | - | 232.58 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-35K18S-GF-25PK | Warm 3500K | - | - | - | - | 3500 | $217.95 | - | 237.44 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-40K18S-GF-4PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | (Discontinued) | - | 232.58 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-40K18S-GF-25PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | (Discontinued) | - | 237.44 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-50K18S-GF-4PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | (Discontinued) | - | 232.58 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-50K18S-GF-25PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | (Discontinued) | - | 237.44 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-40K18S-GF-50PK | Natural 4000K | - | - | - | - | 4000 | (Discontinued) | - | 243.56 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-35K18S-GF-50PK | Warm 3500K | - | - | - | - | 3500 | $424.95 | - | 243.56 lumen/dollar | |
| T8AB-50K18S-GF-50PK | Cool 5000K | - | - | - | - | 5000 | (Discontinued) | - | 243.56 lumen/dollar |
Download T8AB User Manual
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I hope LED's live up to the hype
Purchased 150 light tubes over 4 months and all but one worked. Current draw is half of the T8 florescents they replaced. They seem brighter even though the rated light output is slightly less than Florescent tubes. I do need to do more research but I do know that LED's are capable of putting out a pure frequency of light. Whereas the light coming from incandescent or florescent is a frequency band. a narrow band but a band and not a pure frequency of light. This may explain why they appear brighter. My hope is to get the 30,000+ hours of operation. That would put it out to 20+ years before they need changed.
